Friday, September 10, 2010

My personal list of "must sees" in Tripoli... UPDATED!

WARNING: Swearing in French is known to occur in this blog post. I DO NOT translate it, but if one is curious, use http://translate.google.com -- Google Translate is my "go to" online translator. Sometimes with comical results... which is why if an English to Arabic (or vice versa) translation appears to be bad or insulting, I tend to ask my Lebanese, Libyan, Egyptian, or Jordanian friends for "clarification."

When we make it to Libya (only God knows for sure when that'll be!), inshallah Alex and I will be able to stay with a friend or "host family" in Libya. I think it's a better way to get to know Libya and her people, and also for them to get to know a couple of American tourists. Otherwise, we'll end up getting a hotel, and probably in Dahra or Ben Ashour (though the latter appears to be more residential than the former), since they seem to be the most "expat friendly" areas of the city. On looking at Google Maps (
http://maps.google.com/) and looking at the various areas of Tripoli, there are a LOT of hotels, embassies, museums, etc., all within a short distance (under 5 km, which I consider "walking distance") of things I KNOW I want to see.

Without further ado, here's a list of things I'd like to see (this list, I'm sure, will likely be ever evolving):


  • The Jamahiriyah Museum (it sounds intriguing, though I can't find a website for the museum itself. I'd expect more, considering this is on the level of the Smithsonian Museum, or other "American national museums". When the National Cowboy Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum outside OKC has a website-- http://www.nationalcowboymuseum.org/-- I'm somewhat annoyed that the Jamahiriyah Museum lacks one. I may need to dig deeper with Google and the .ly web suffix).
  • The Arch of Marcus Aurelius, Saraya Hamra/Red Castle, the Old City of Tripoli (what can I say, I'm a history buff).
  • The revolving restaurant at the top of the Al Fateh Tower (because I enjoy the Seattle Space Needle immensely).
  • The Sea Restaurant (I like to eat).
  • Pepsi-Cola Rd. (I like to drink Pepsi, and with a name like "Pepsi-Cola Rd.", there's gotta be a cafe that serves said drink. Um, I had to do a double take upon seeing this one on the map, and hey, anything so overtly food related will probably get a looksy by me... even if it IS "just a road").
  • Abu Sittah Horse Racing (um, a day at the races, to indulge my British roots-- is betting allowed? Just kidding... sort of)
  • Suq Dahra (um, I'm a woman. I like to shop. This is a place to shop. Hence, it's gonna get visited).
  • San Francisco Church (I'm Catholic, so is Alex. We actively practice our faith. Hence, we'll be going to Mass while in Libya).
  • Tripoli Central Library (I like to read. Hopefully at least a few of the books, periodicals, and newspapers are in English, French, German, Dutch or Italian, as these are the only languages I can read and get the gist of things from. It may also be a place to connect to the Internet to blog from my laptop).
  • Tripoli Castle (this may or may not be someplace that I've already declared I "want to" visit).
  • Municipal Beach (I WILL NOT, and I repeat, WILL NOT, wear anything like a bikini on the beach. Partly because I don't own one, and partly because yeeeeeesh, this is an Islamic country. I'm not going to wear something abroad that I wouldn't wear at home, especially when it comes to this area. I'll go by an Islamic boutique and buy a swimsuit or whatever there if I do choose to take a dip in the water. I've heard that that's not recommended due to pollution. I'll do this even if I'm just sunbathing, which I'll do after coating myself in SPF 60 and STILL end up getting a sunburn... sometimes it's just lovely to have Frisian Dutch genes-- emphasis on the sarcasm).
  • Green Square, aka, As-Saha al-Kradrah (who WOULDN'T want to see the place that so many speeches have been launched from since 1969? I've heard that the area is best visited before 10 am... That's usually when I'm getting up in the morning).
  • Various cafes (because I DO hail from the Northwest. While the drink of choice here is typically coffee, I'm more a fan of tea. Preferably with lots of milk and sugar and mint, but no peanuts on the side for me-- allergically triggered migraine headaches are NOT fun).
  • Gold's Gym, Tripoli (this is my friend Ayman's venture. He's thinking about opening it up in Ain Zara, which may or may not be a good idea. From what I can tell, the ONLY thing in close proximity to this area is Al Fateh U. It'd likely attract college students, but considering it's an international gym, I think it'd be better suited for Ben Ashour or Dahra... if the rents in existing buildings are not too cost prohibitive, that is. Otherwise, to attract the expat community, a lot of publicity would have to be done. Considering this is an INTERNATIONAL gym in an ISLAMIC country, I'm hoping that there will be hours for "women only" so as not to exclude those women who wish to work out but do not feel comfortable doing so in front of men, or whose male family members do not feel comfortable allowing them to do so in a "mixed gym". I know I don't particularly care to work out when men are watching... because when I'm at my sweatiest, smelliest, and my hair's all a mess and my makeup is flowing down my face, I DO NOT want anyone of the opposite gender BUT Alex-- and my father and brother-- to see me... although sometimes, I really don't give a care).
  • Tripoli Airport (though I'll just be passing through here).
  • All of the UN Heritage sites in the country (though Cyrene is a bit out of the way, and considering Alex's distaste for "le pou sur le cul du chameau", which is a particularly rude term in French I've been known to use to refer to my least charming ex, it's probably best I keep my husband far, far away from anywhere this "morceau de merde" (another insult for said "demi-libyen, mais total ane d'un homme")-- may be).
  • Attend ANY cultural fair, music festival, or that sort of thing that's happening during my visit. I read on "iexplore" that while Tripoli is THE place for "big political rallies", cultural performances are rare, and cultural fairs are non-existent. http://www.iexplore.com/cityguides/Libya/Tripoli/The+Essentials -- this same site then reverses itself and lists several cultural fairs... hmmm)
  • Catch a soccer match at 11 June Stadium (yeah, I finally figured out the historical significance of this date-- it's the date in 1970 in which American forces left/were expelled from their Libyan bases; March 28, 1970 being the date that the British forces left/were expelled from THEIR Libyan bases. Hence the name of the two roads in Tripoli with those names. I appreciate the fact that I had to dig a little and do a little research to figure this one out. I do like that, and intellectual conversation immensely-- many thanks to my new friends Sana and Halim for providing it as of late).

An interesting background on Libyan-U.S. relations, as of late (since 2009), as well as historical background can be found here: http://www.fas.org/sgp/crs/mideast/RL33142.pdf

I hope everyone's enjoying their Eid holiday... may God bless you during this coming year, and may this year (2011) be the year that I finally VISIT Libya, instead of just TALKING/WRITING about it!

UPDATE: A person from London, England, found this page on the search query "what not to do in tripoli, libya". I'd say, quite simply:

#1-- Don't attempt to smuggle alcohol (or any other drugs) into the country. It is not legal for you to consume alcohol in this country. You will find Libyans that drink like a fish. Don't be one of them. They may be able to get away with it; you, as a visitor, will not be so fortunate.

#2-- Do not attempt to photograph any military installations. If you're unsure what is and what isn't (and some things are not clearly marked), err on the side of caution and don't take a picture of it.

#3-- If you're a woman, don't dress like you would in the West. Cover up a bit more. Libya is still a conservative, Islamic country, and you don't want people-- especially men-- sexually harassing you. And they probably will, if they see you dressed like a French prostitute. If you're a man, don't dress like a gangster. For both genders: business casual, or casual professional dress is recommended. Not too overtly business like, but look sharp. For women, it's recommended for you to wear hijab, because it shows respect for Libya and her "state religion", Islam.

#4-- Don't expect Libyans to be prompt for appointments. All Arabs have a more "relaxed" viewpoint on such matters. However, they will expect YOU to be on time.

#5-- DO NOT attempt to shake a woman's hand if you're a man (or a woman), unless she offers her hand first. You may get a bad rep if you don't follow this rule.

#6-- DO NOT, for the love of all that is good and right, criticize the Libyan government or Muammar Abu Minyar Al Gaddafi (aka, "The Brother Leader") or any of his family members (several of which play prominent roles in the Libyan government, including his son Moatessam Bilal, who's the national security advisor). To do so may mean getting acquainted with the Libyan penal and prison system, and you don't want that. Believe me.

#7-- DO NOT be afraid of the Libyan people, or of their faith, Islam. Get to know as many Libyans as you can during your visit. Step outside of your "comfort zone" box, and see more of the country than perhaps a touring group would like you to see.

#8-- When in Rome, do as the Romans do. This applies here. But be careful. Just in case, make sure you know where your home country's embassy is in Tripoli. I would recommend, as soon as you're checked into your hotel, to "check in" at your country's embassy, too. Just in case. However, if you're Canadian, don't go to the American Embassy, or UK Embassy. The Libyan government may accuse you of "espionage"-- don't laugh. There's a present case of a Canadian in slight trouble, accused of being a spy for the CIA. Which is asinine; any CIA presence in Libya is not via proxy... we'd use our own "spooks" before employing another nation's.

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